The reputation for cool design is deserved, but Sweden’s capital surprises with its accessibility, relaxed vibe and fantastic, fresh food.

Swedish design can lead to a dangerous, expensive addiction. You start off with lovable, utilitarian IKEA, then acquire a lifelong, Bergmanesque obsession with the more elusive, brooding masters of Scandinavian design. I’m still thinking about some covetable Arne Jacobsen, Alvar Aalto and Verner Panton chairs, Axel Salto ceramics and Berndt Friberg pots on view at Modernity, just one of the many inspirational design stores around town. Andrew Duncanson made the canny move to Stockholm from Scotland in 1998 to open this store, which has quickly become a mecca for fans of Scandinavian mid-century modern.